Because it is summer, and the hallmark of summer is an excess of summer squash, I’m digging into the what-to-do-with zucchini files today. This is a tutorial, based on a recipe from Amanda Hesser’s The Cook and the Gardener.
Step 1:
Rinse your zucchini, dry them, trim off the ends, and cut each one into quarters, lengthwise. Lay the quarters out in a row on a clean dishcloth or tea towel, or even a pile of paper towels (I just try not to use paper towels, because it freaks me out to think of them piling up in the landfill).
Sprinkle the slices liberally with salt.
Next, gently lay another towel on top of the zucchini:
Now you’re going to roll the whole thing up, starting at one end, to make a sort of towel-zucchini-towel spiral wrap. The concept (which, by the way, is called purging) is for the salt to draw the excess liquid out of the zucchini; the towels will absorb the juice, leaving you with slightly dried out strips of squash that will roast to a gently caramelized softness, and will also soak up any flavoring that you put on them.
This is what your spiral looks like. Let it sit like this for half an hour or so.
Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. While it’s warming up, go ahead and unwrap your tidy little bundle. Carefully wipe most of the salt off of the individual strips, but don’t wet them (that would defeat the purpose of the whole purging process). Place the strips on a baking sheet that you’ve either lined with parchment or sprayed with Pam.
Spritz the strips with pan spray, and place them in the preheated oven.
Here, I have to quote Hesser, because she writes so beautifully:
“Roast in the oven for 1 to 1 1/4 hours, turning once or twice to brown them on all sides. The cooking time will vary greatly, depending on the thickness of the zucchini strips as well as the zucchini’s age. Some young zucchini will resist the heat and take a long time to wilt, while older zucchini can be pithy and may cook quite quickly. Keep a close eye on it. As the zucchini cooks, it will shrink, giving up yet more of its moisture until it darkens and wrinkles on the edges. It will intensify in flavor, just as tomatoes do. The strips are cooked when they are golden-brown on the cut surfaces and the flesh is a very soft pulp.” If that doesn’t make you want zucchini for dinner, I give up.
Transfer the strips to a serving dish, and sprinkle with 1/2 T. of the best balsamic vinegar you have (yes, I should’ve roasted mine a bit longer, but I had people at the table, clamoring for dinner).
Slow-Roasted Zucchini
Serves 3
4 medium or 2 large zucchini (about 2 pounds)
Coarse or kosher salt
pan spray
1/2 T. balsamic vinegar