Caponata–Capturing the End of the Season

by Lisa Rosen on October 16, 2009

caponataI recognize that this is a deeply unattractive dinner.  It’s brown and mushy looking.  I know–that’s not a description that most people find appetizing.  But you have to admit that in this case, it’s true.  Very brown, very mushy.

But it’s my last, desperate attempt to hang on to summer.  This week has been unusually chilly and rainy here, but I refuse to accept that summer is over, in spite of the evidence to the contrary.

I went to the farmer’s market the other day and refused to even acknowledge the apples and pumpkins and kale.  I snagged eggplants and peppers and a few last-gasp tomatoes, determined to make something sunny and warm.  This is how I used the eggplants.

And it’s a winner.  I made it right before Lee left town, and was actually kind of surprised by how much he liked it.  Then I scarfed down the leftovers last night (warmed, of course, in a small saucepan–still no microwave) and thought it was actually a bit better the second time around.  Still brown and mushy, though.

The recipe is from The Farm to Table Cookbook by Ivy Manning.  I made two changes:  I left out the oil entirely, and instead of the 1 cup of tomato sauce the recipe calls for, I used up some leftover tomato paste (about 3 tablespoons, I think), diluted in enough water to make 1 cup.  And if you care, the use of currants, cinnamon, and cocoa powder in a savory dish is a distinctly Sicilian touch, stemming, if I remember correctly, from a period of Arab rule.  Have I mentioned how much I love the history of culinary traditions?I love how you can look at an ingredient, like, say, currants, and trace it through history, both chronologically and geographically, paralleling the movement of cultures/armies.  Wait–I digress. Sorry.  Here’s the recipe.

Sicilian Eggplant Spread
Makes 6 appetizer-sized servings, three dinner-sized

1 cup chopped onion
3 T. pine nuts
3 T. dried currants or raisins
1/2 t. dried oregano
3 large garlic cloves, sliced
1 pound eggplant, peeled and cut into 1/2 inch cubes
1 t. sugar
1/2 t. ground cinnamon
1 t. unsweetened cocoa powder
1 cup tomato sauce
3 T. balsamic vinegar
salt and pepper

Heat a large nonstick saute pan over low-medium heat; when it’s hot, coat with pan spray.  Add the onion, pine nuts, currants, and oregano, and cook until the onion is soft and translucent, about 8 minutes.  At this point, expect people to start wandering through the kitchen, wanting to know what smells so good.

Add the garlic, eggplant, sugar, cinnamon, and cocoa.  Cook, stirring frequently, until the eggplant begins to brown and becomes soft around the edges, about 15 minutes.

Add the tomato sauce and vinegar, cover, and simmer until the eggplant is very tender, about 30 minutes.  Season with salt and pepper and set aside for at least 1 hour to meld flavors.  Be prepared, during this waiting period, to explain repeatedly that no, it’s not ready yet, and yes, you’ll just have to wait!  Or make it ahead of time and reheat it for dinner.  That would probably be the smart thing to do.

Serve with something green.

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